Foundation Chain Stitch

Illustration 1- PLAIN FOUNDATION CHAIN

–The plain foundation chain consists of chain stitches. Form a loop with the cotton or other material with which you work, take it on the needle, and hold the cotton as for knitting on the forefinger and other fingers of the left hand.

The crochet-needle is held in the right hand between the thumb and forefinger, as you hold a pen in writing; hold the end of the cotton of the loop between the thumb and forefinger of the left hand, wind the cotton once round the needle by drawing the needle underneath the cotton from left to right, catch the cotton with the hook of the needle and draw it as a loop through the loop already on the needle, which is cast off the needle by this means and forms one chain stitch. The drawing the cotton through the loop is repeated until the foundation chain has acquired sufficient length. When enough chain stitches have been made, take the foundation chain between the thumb and forefinger of the left hand, so that these fingers are always close to and under the hook of the needle. Each stitch must be loose enough to let the hook of the needle pass easily through. All foundation chains are begun with a loop.

Double Foundation Chain Stitch

Illustration 2- DOUBLE FOUNDATION CHAIN

– Crochet 2 chain stitches, insert the needle downwards into the left side of the 1st chain stitch, throw the cotton forward, draw it out as a loop, wind the cotton again round the needle and draw it through the two loops on the needle, * draw the cotton as a loop through the left side of the last stitch (see illustration), wind the cotton round the needle, and draw it through both loops on the needle. Repeat from * till the foundation chain is long enough.

Purl Foundation Chain Stitch

Illustration 3- PURL FOUNDATION CHAIN

–* Crochet 4 chain stitch, then 1 treble stitch–that is, wind the cotton round the needle, insert the needle downwards into the left side of the 1st of the 4 chain stitches, wind the cotton round the needle, draw it through the stitch, wind the cotton again round the needle, and at the same time draw the cotton through the last loop and through the stitch formed by winding the cotton round the needle. Wind the cotton once more round the needle, and draw it through the 2 remaining loops on the needle. The 4 chain stitches form a kind of scallop or purl. Repeat from *.

The following crochet stitches require foundation chains like Nos. 1 and 2; they are all worked in separate rows except No. 7 Ribbed Stitch and No. 19 Open Work Spots. Make a loop at the beginning of every row, as has been described (No. 1), and take it on the needle.

Slip Stitch

Illustration 4- SLIP STITCH

–Draw the needle through the back part of a foundation chain stitch, or in the course of the work through the back part of a stitch of the preceding row, wind the cotton round the needle, and draw it through the stitch and loop on the needle. The illustration shows a number of slip stitches, the last of which is left quite loose; the arrow marks the place where the needle is to be inserted for the next stitch.

Double Stitch

Illustration 5- DOUBLE STITCH

–These are worked nearly like the preceding ones. Draw the cotton as a loop through the back part of a stitch, wind the cotton round the needle, and draw it through the two loops on the needle.

Alternate Double Stitch

Illustration 6- ALTERNATE DOUBLE STITCH

–These double stitches are worked nearly like the preceding ones; the 1st row is worked like that of Double Stitch No. 5; in
the following ones insert the needle into the two upper sides of a stitch of the preceding row.

Ribbed Stitch

Illustration 7- RIBBED STITCH

–This stitch is worked backwards and forwards–that is, the right and wrong sides are worked together, which forms the raised ribs. Insert the needle always into the back part of every stitch. Work 1 chain stitch at the end of every row, which is not worked, however, in the following row.

Slanting Stitch

Illustration 8- SLANTING STITCH, DOUBLE STITCH

–This stitch is worked like that described in Double Stitch No. 5; the cotton is not wound round the needle the first time in the usual manner, but the needle is placed in the direction of the arrow, above the cotton. Draw the cotton through as a loop; the stitch is finished like the common double stitch.

Cross Stitch

Illustration 9- CROSS STITCH

–This stitch is worked like Slanting Stitch No. 8 on a foundation like Double Foundation Chain No. 2, only insert the needle
through the two upper sides of a stitch.

Long Double Stitch

Illustration 10- LONG DOUBLE STITCH

–For this stitch wind the cotton round the needle, insert it into the back part of a stitch, draw the cotton out as a loop, wind the cotton again round the needle, and cast off together the two loops and the loop formed by winding the cotton round the needle.

Treble Stitch

Illustration 11- TREBLE STITCH

–These stitches are worked as has been described for the purl foundation chain, No. 3. The treble stitches are worked on a foundation chain or in the stitches of the preceding row.

Long Treble Stitch

Double Long Treble Stitch

Illustration 12- LONG TREBLE STITCH and illustration 13- DOUBLE LONG TREBLE STITCH

–These are worked like treble stitches, only the cotton is wound twice round the needle; the DOUBLE LONG TREBLE (illustration 13) is worked by winding the cotton three times round the needle. The loops formed by winding the cotton round the needle are cast off one by one with one of the loops on the needle. The two loops that remain at the end are cast off together after winding the cotton round the needle.

Completed Cross Treble Stitch

Partially Completed Cross Treble Stitch

Partially Completed Cross Treble Stitch

Illustration 14-16 CROSS TREBLE

–Illustration 14 shows this stitch completed; illustrations 15 and 16 show them in the course of the work. Wind the cotton twice round the needle as for a long treble, insert the needle into the stitch in which the first half of the cross treble is to be worked, wind the cotton round the needle, draw the cotton through as a loop, wind the cotton again round the needle and cast off together with the same the loop on the needle and the loop formed by throwing the cotton forward; you have now 3 loops left on the needle, 1 of which has been formed by winding the cotton round the needle; missing these, wind the cotton again round the needle, miss the 2 next stitches of the foundation chain, and draw a loop through the third stitch. You have now 5 loops on the needle. Always cast off 2 loops at a time till only 1 loop remains on the needle. Work 2 chain stitches (if you wish to have the stitches more or less) slanting, work 1, 2, or 3 chain stitches, missing, of course, the same number of foundation chain, work 1 treble stitch, inserting the needle, as shown by the arrow on No. 16, into the 2 cross chain of the completed treble stitch.

Raised Spots Stitch

Illustration 17- RAISED SPOTS

–The grounding on which these spots are worked consists of double crochet. They are worked across 3 rows of the ground, and formed of treble stitches, the spots of one row being placed between those of the preceding. Work first 2 rows of double stitch, in the 3rd row work first 2 double stitches and then 1 spot as follows:–1 treble, inserting the needle into both sides of 1 stitch of the first row (the preceding row is missed); the treble stitch is only completed so far that 2 loops remain on the needle; then work 2 treble stitches in the same stitch as the first, which are also only completed as far as the first treble stitch, so that after the 2nd treble there remain 3 loops and after the 3rd 4 loops on the needle (see illustration). The 4 loops are cast off together by winding the cotton once more round the needle and drawing it through. Miss under the spot the next double stitch of the preceding row; the spots are repeated at intervals of 5 stitches and in every other row.

Hollow Spots Stitch

Illustration 18- HOLLOW SPOTS

–The ground is worked in double crochet (illustration 5). These spots, which appear raised, consist of 5 treble stitches; they are worked in every other row at intervals of 5 stitches. For working them leave 1 loop on the needle, insert the needle between the 2 long sides of the last-worked double stitch, and work 5 treble stitches, always inserting the needle into the front part of 1 stitch of the preceding row. The first 4 treble are completed entirely without taking up the loop which was on the needle; with the fifth treble stitch only the 3 loops are cast off together by winding the cotton round the needle. Miss 1 stitch of the preceding row under the spot.

Open Work Spots Stitch

Illustration 19- OPEN WORK SPOTS

–These spots are treble stitches divided by 2 chain; miss 2 stitches under the latter; for the rest, they are worked like the raised spots (illustration 17).

Raised Treble Stitch

Illustration 20- RAISED TREBLE STITCH

–These stitches are long treble worked on a ribbed ground (illustration 7), and are thrown across 3 rows of the same. The raised treble are always worked on the same side of the work and in the long side of the corresponding stitch of the last row but two. After every row with treble stitch comes a row in ribbed stitch. At the beginning work 3 rows of ribbed stitch; the treble stitches begin only in the 4th row.

Purl Stitch

Illustration 21- PURL STITCH

–These purl stitches imitate a lace edging perfectly well. Work 1 double, draw out the loop to a certain length (this forms the purl), take the needle out of it, insert it in the front part of the last stitch which has been worked (see illustration), wind the cotton round the needle and draw it through as a loop; 1 double, 1 purl, and so on.

Purl Stitch Upwards

Illustration 22- PURL STITCH turned upwards

–Work 1 treble, then 7 chain stitch. Insert the needle into the 2nd of the 7 chain stitch downwards, so that the chain stitches form a scallop upwards (see illustration), wind the cotton round the needle and draw the cotton through; work 1 chain stitch and 1 treble in the next stitch but 3, missing 3 stitches under it.

Purl Stitch Downwards

Illustration 23- PURL STITCH turned downwards

–The chain stitches form a scallop turned downwards. After having worked the 7 chain stitches take the needle out of the loop, insert it underneath the upper chain of the 2nd chain stitch, from right to left, and draw it through the loop in the direction of the arrow. Wind the cotton round the needle and cast all the loops off together. It is evident that the purl stitches may be worked at larger or smaller distances.

The way that crochet is practiced is the same in all these countries, and generally English (Europe / Australia/ NZ) crochet terms are very similar. However there are significant differences between American crochet terms and measurements when compared to English terms and measurements.

These diferences are comparing American crochet (US/ Canada) to English (Europe/Australia/ New Zealand) crochet are respectively:

chain (ch) (same in US and UK)
single crochet (sc)(US)—————-double crochet (dc)(UK)
double crochet (dc)(US)—————treble crochet (tr)(UK)
half double crochet (hdc)(US)———-half treble crochet (htr) (UK)
triple crochet (tc)(US)—————–double treble crochet (dtr or dbl tr)(UK)
Slip stitch (sl st) (same in US and UK)

For measurement the Imperial Standard measurement is used in the United States and Metric is used in the rest of the world.

All projects begin with a slipknot. Create the knot, and slip the crochet hook in the loop you created, and then tighten it to fasten the knot. The basic crochet stitches are single crochet (sc), chain (ch), double crochet (dc) half double crochet (hdc) and finally treble crochet (tr).

Your foundation stitch is your chain, or ch. With your slipknot on your hook, do a yarn over, and begin making as many changes as the pattern requires.

Let’s look at a scarf pattern for beginners.

1. Start with chain 15.

Start with 15 chain stitches.

2. Row 1, sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in ea of next 13 chs, ch 1 (to turn). (14 sc).

Through a single crochet into the second chain from the heart, but do not add any more to the chain. Count only the first chain attached to the hook.

3. Row 2, sc in ea sc across, then ch1, to turn. (14sc)

A single crochet stitch is done in every single crossed a stitch across the pattern. Unless noted otherwise, crochet in both loops of the stitch. Enter your hook below the top loops found in the stitch, so you can start to create the next single crochet.

4. Last row, sc in ea sc across. (14sc)

Here you will perform a single crochet in every single crochet that goes across the pattern, but don’t make a chain one at the end of the row. When you’re finished, leave some links to secure the weave at the end, then cut the yarn and weave the ends.

There are a number of standard crochet terms and abbreviations that are frequently used. Some of these crochet terms pertain to the various stitches used in a section of a pattern, while others refer to colors.

MC is the crochet term for the main color that is used in a pattern.
CC is the secondary or contrasting color used.
YO means to wrap the yarn over the hook and
CH is the crochet term for a chain stitch.

There are even more standard crochet terms:
sc- which means single crochet
dc- meaning double crochet.
hdc- means half-double crochet stitches
tr- means treble crochet stitch
Sl- means slip stitch
Single crochet and double crochet are simply different ways of stitching; all of the terms used are based on a single crochet stitch, which means inserting the crochet hook into a stitch, and wrapping the yarn around the hook and drawing the hook back through the stitch, wrapping the yarn over the hook and lastly drawing through both loops.

If you need further information on a single stitch you can find a step by step sequence here and here for a step by step sequence on a double crochet stitch.

So how does one go about learning how to crochet? It is not as hard of a skill to learn as you might imagine but it does take a bit of skill and, as with anything new, patience. In addition, you need the right resources such as proper hooks, yarns, needles, some easy crochet patterns and most of all some perseverance and a willingness to learn.

Let’s now discuss some tips on how to learn crocheting.

You should start by learning how to hold the yarn. This is a very important skill. You have to know how to let the yarn pass through your fingers, while you’re holding it. You can loop the yarn around your little finger, and then make it cross the forefinger to accomplish this.

You should hold your hook like you hold a pencil or spoon. The more you practice, the more comfortable you will be working with the yarn. Experiment with different ways of holding it until you become efficient and it feels comfotable.

There are certain things you want to have if you want to learn to crochet. These are the basic things: scissors, a size-G crochet hook, a yarn needle with a huge eye, and yarn, of course. Make sure your yarn is the worsted-weight kind of which ever color you want!

The first step to remember when you want to learn to crochet is making the slip knot onto your crochet hook. This is an easy step, as it is. You just need to hold your crochet hook steady when you make the slip know.

After which, bring the yarn right over the crochet hook. This should be in a back to front motion. Once this is done, grab the yarn with your hook. And then, draw the hooked yarn right through the slip knot you made, and place it right back onto your hook. Doing this makes a one-chain stitch. This is the basic stitch you need to know if you want to learn to crochet. There are still other stitches to know if you want to learn to crochet extensively. But let’s just stick with the basics for now.

Keep doing these steps, to make more chain stitches. One you’ve made a long line of chain stitches, you’re ready to make your second loop. You do this by skipping the first chain stitch you made, and inserting your hook into the center of the following chain stitch. Draw the yarn right through the chain stitch. Once this is done, place it onto the hook. You should now have two loops.

Keep repeating these steps, depending on the piece you want to make. If this indeed a first for you to learn to crochet, then you should start with small pieces. A handkerchief, or a scarf perhaps, would give you the practice you need, then you can move on to bigger things!

Finally, it is important that you learn how to read crochet patterns. It may look complicated at first because there are many abbreviations. By familiarizing yourself with the different abbreviations, and also with the different stitches that are required for these patterns, you’ll be able to better yourself and your crochet skills.